Eleven climbers were killed or went missing on the 8,850-metre mountain in May, nine on the Nepalese side and two on the Tibetan side. All climbers seeking a permit for Qomolangma must have prior high altitude mountaineering experience and demonstrable training, a high-level commission for the Nepalese government has ruled.
The Nepalese panel — made up of government officials, climbing experts and agencies representing the climbing community —was set up after climbers and guides criticized officials for allowing anyone who paid $11,000 to attempt to climb Qomolangma. Some experienced guiding companies had long warned of the dangerous consequences of inexperience and crowds on the summit slopes.
"Climbers to Qomolangma and other 8,000-metre mountains must undergo basic and high altitude climbing training,” the panel said in the report it submitted to the government. It said that those hoping to climb Qomolangma must have climbed at least one Nepalese peak of more than 6,500-metres before getting a permit. Climbers must also submit a certificate of good health and physical fitness and be accompanied by a trained Nepalese guide.
Mira Acharya, a member of the panel, said climbers died due to altitude sickness, heart attack, exhaustion or weaknesses, and not due to traffic jams. She said the compulsory provision of guides for each climber was to discourage solo attempts, which put lives at risk. The panel's report also proposes a fee of at least $35,000 for those wanting to climb Qomolangma , and $20,000 for other mountains higher than 8,000m.
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