Since opening in 1994, Haidilao, China’s largest hot pot chain, has become known for its unconventional approach to attracting customers. Staff members in colorful masks sometimes perform traditional Chinese opera in front of diners, even in branches in the US and Britain. And since hot pot is considered a shared experience, the restaurants sometimes offer toys as companions for solo diners. The chain, which has more than 100 stores across the world, including 13 branches in the US, has recently offered a new dance performance as part of the dining experience across its 1,400 branches.
Videos of staff doing the “kemusan” dance while guests eat have become the latest Internet sensation (引起轰动的事) on Chinese social media. The routine is widely believed to originate from a wedding dance in the southern Chinese region of Guangxi. The dance involves performers swinging their knees sideways as they perform a quick series of hand actions, including quick wrist-twisting moves. The dance is done to music that sounds like a mix of Western disco beats and traditional Chinese folk singing. The dance has become an instant sensation. In videos posted on social media, some diners seem to enjoy it so much that they join staff in the performance.
▲ The act has started a debate online, with some calling it a “low” promotional method. It all started with a comment on a local Chinese online forum (论坛). A mother complained that she was annoyed by the “tacky squirming dance” following a recent meal with her family at one of the branches. Her comment quickly caused a fierce debate online. One online influencer, with 740,000 followers, called the dance “exploitation”. “The staff no longer show any emotions, looking very stiff (僵硬的) after performing kemusan. That’s too much effort,” he wrote on Weibo.
A spokesman from Haidilao told CNN that the company has been encouraging branches to be creative and financially reward staff for their hard work. “The company will also provide corresponding rewards for employees who can gain customer recognition,” Haidilao said. But the company did not comment on reports that some branches have stopped offering the dance in the wake of the recent debate.
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